I just want to talk about surrendering axolotls. I so often see axolotls advertised for sale that are in such terrible conditions, it breaks my heart. If you don’t have time for an animal or are in over your head, please, don’t wait until they are dying from starvation or injury to give them to someone who can take care of them. Do it as soon as you realise you’re in over your head, not when they have no floofs or sunken tummies.
Why this happens?
Many people are told totally incorrect advice by pet stores. They are not told how to properly cycle tanks and what an axolotl actually does and doesn’t need in their tanks. This means that people think they are doing the right thing, but all of a sudden their axolotls have burnt floofs, like this guy, or they become too skinny.
Correct water conditions are crucial to a having a healthy axolotl. Please see our cycling posts and information to learn more about the correct way to cycle a tank, before you put in an axolotl. This is absolutely crucial. I can’t stress this enough. If your tank isn’t correctly cycled prior to adding your axolotl, they will end up with ammonia burns to their floofs and slime coat. This means they literally cant breath properly.
What else happens to a stressed axolotl
If an axolotl becomes stressed due to incorrect water parameters and ammonia burns, they will stop eating.
Incorrect food
Another issue is people giving incorrect food to their axolotls. Axolotls should be eating live earthworms as their main diet. See our worm farm post, its very easy to keep and set up. As well as shrimp, prawn, salmon and blood worms as treats.
On more than one occasion I have seen people post that they were advised to give only blood worms, or only a handful of shrimp or even to only feed a couple of times a week. Or mammal meat and offal, but these are not suitable for axolotls.
Axolotls should be offered food daily, not every few days. They may refuse it, which it fine, but withholding food shouldn’t happen.
Stones
Incorrect substrate is another huge culprit to unhealthy axolotls.
These are some examples of incorrect substrate. Small stone substrate can be very easily swallowed and cause impaction. People wont even see that their axolotl has eaten this, they will just stop eating as they can’t pass anything through.
Stones that are big enough to put in their mouths are also very dangerous. Axolotls will put a stone this size in their mouth and it will become lodged in there throat or stomach. Any stones, rocks or decorations added to the tank should be at least twice the size of their heads.
I have seen people say that they believe these substrates to be fine as they don’t feed their axolotls near it. However, I have also seen my own axolotls suction up sand when they see movement outside the sank because they think its food. This makes it 100% possible for them to put these items in their mouths no matter where they are in a tank.
You literally need to baby proof the tank. If they can put it in their mouth, but can’t poop it out, don’t include it.
Sand
Fine sand is the best substrate for an axolotl, once it is over 15cm. Before that, they can’t pass it and could also become impacted. Its best to keep young axolotls on bare bottom or tiles until they are older.
I also always recommend white sand as its much easier to see their poop. They stand on it so often, leaving a pile of brown, rather than a little log. On white sand you can see it all to clean it all out.
Other risk factors
There is always a chance that you’re going to buy an axolotl that already has a parasite or gets a one from their food. If you have ruled out all the above and your axolotl is still looking unhappy, take them to an aquatic pet vet.
If you’re in Perth Western Australia, reach out to me and I will take them or point you in the right direction. Otherwise, if you don’t want to post on a public forum where you might get judgement, please also message me and I will try and help you get them to better health yourself.
